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Skincare: Science or Snake Oil? What Really Works

Alison Mary

Updated: Feb 4

Skincare Hype vs. Science: What Do You Really Need?


With so many skincare brands flooding the market—many endorsed or even created by practitioners—it’s easy to get lost in the hype. But what truly makes a difference in your skin health, and what is just clever marketing?

Let’s break down what you actually need in your skincare routine, the essential ingredients to look for, and whether brand name really matters.


Do Expensive Skincare Brands Work Better?


Many people assume that high-end, luxury skincare brands are superior, but in reality, the effectiveness of a product comes down to its formulation and active ingredients, not the price tag or brand name. Some budget-friendly products contain the exact same clinically proven ingredients as their expensive counterparts.



What Matters More Than Brand:


  • Concentration of Active Ingredients – A product may contain retinol or vitamin C, but if the concentration is too low, it won’t be effective.

  • Stability of Ingredients – Some ingredients degrade quickly (e.g., vitamin C oxidizes fast if not formulated properly).

  • Delivery System – Ingredients need proper absorption methods (e.g., encapsulated retinol for slow release).

  • Clinical Evidence – Are the product’s claims backed by independent studies?


Branding and marketing do not necessarily indicate efficacy. Some of the best-performing skincare products come from dermatologist-developed, science-backed formulations (think The Ordinary) rather than heavily marketed luxury lines.


Brands That Are Worth It (Science-Backed & Effective)


If you're looking for skincare that actually delivers results, here are some brands that are backed by science and dermatologists:


La Roche-Posay – Affordable, dermatologist-approved, and excellent for sensitive skin. Their sunscreens and niacinamide products are industry gold standards.

CeraVe – Developed with dermatologists, it includes essential ceramides and proven hydration formulas at a reasonable price.

SkinCeuticals – Known for its high-potency vitamin C (CE Ferulic) and scientifically-backed formulations.

Paula’s Choice – Straightforward, effective skincare with clinically proven ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, and exfoliating acids.

Avene – Great for sensitive skin, especially their Cicalfate and Thermal Spring Water-based products.

The Ordinary – Affordable, single-ingredient-focused brand that allows you to customize your skincare routine based on active ingredients.

Medik8 – Offers clinically tested retinol, vitamin C, and peptides that compete with luxury brands at a more reasonable price.

EltaMD – One of the best dermatologist-recommended sunscreens with high SPF protection and skin-nourishing ingredients.

Alastin Skincare – Known for its medical-grade, post-procedure recovery skincare and collagen-boosting formulas.

Neostrata (this is my personal brand of choice) – One of the pioneers in AHA skincare, backed by clinical studies.



Brands That Are Overhyped or Overpriced (Marketing Over Science)


These brands may have beautiful packaging and strong marketing but lack solid scientific backing, use ineffective formulations, or charge a premium for unproven claims:


🚫 La Mer – Uses a “miracle broth” with no real clinical backing, mostly overpriced mineral oil and algae.

🚫 Dr. Barbara Sturm – Luxurious, expensive, but lacks strong evidence for effectiveness compared to cheaper alternatives.

🚫 Augustinus Bader – Heavily marketed as a ‘miracle’ skincare, but the science doesn’t justify the cost.

🚫 Tatcha – Beautiful packaging, but many products contain fragrance and unnecessary ingredients without much clinical support.

🚫 Goop Beauty – Gwyneth Paltrow’s brand, often associated with pseudoscience rather than dermatological backing.

🚫 Rodan + Fields – Multi-level marketing (MLM) model with overpriced, often irritating formulations.

🚫 Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream – More of a cosmetic primer than actual long-term skincare

🚫 Kylie Skin / Kim Kardashian’s SKKN – Celeb-backed brands that rely more on marketing than dermatological research.

🚫 Sunday Riley – High price tags, but inconsistent formulations and controversies around fake reviews.

🚫 111Skin – Expensive and marketed as medical-grade, but lacks the clinical studies to justify the pricing.


 

The Essentials: What Every Effective Skincare Routine Needs


A solid skincare routine doesn’t need 10+ steps or every trending ingredient on the market. It comes down to a few key essentials that have been proven through research to benefit skin health.


1. Sunscreen (SPF 30+) – The Non-Negotiable

  • Protects against UV damage, premature aging, and skin cancer.

  • Prevents collagen and elastin degradation.

  • Look for broad-spectrum SPF with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for the best protection.


2. Vitamin C – The Antioxidant Powerhouse

  • Neutralizes free radicals from sun exposure and pollution.

  • Stimulates collagen production.

  • Look for L-ascorbic acid in concentrations of 10-20% for effectiveness.


3. Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin) – The Gold Standard for Anti-Aging

  • Increases cell turnover and collagen production.

  • Reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and acne.

  • Prescription-strength tretinoin is more effective than over-the-counter retinol, so I'd always recommend that over the products you can get in Boots/Superdrug etc.


4. Moisturiser – Supporting Skin Barrier Function

  • Prevents trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) - the process if water leaving the body through the skin which we do not want.

  • Ingredients to look for: ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and squalane.


 

Final Thought: Science Over Hype

If a skincare product sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Stick to the basics, prioritise science-backed ingredients, and don’t fall for marketing gimmicks that promise overnight miracles. Your skin deserves real results, not just expensive promises.


I personally use Neostrata products both in my salon and in my personal skincare routine. I choose Neostrata because they have numerous unbiased clinical trials repeatedly proving that their products deliver real, science-backed results. Their formulations are also targeted to specific skin concerns, ensuring that each product is designed with purpose.


I’ve never been one to jump from product to product, and for good reason. When you constantly switch skincare, you don’t actually know if a product works for two key reasons:


  1. You’re relying on someone else’s word rather than clinical evidence—just because a product is popular or marketed well doesn’t mean it’s effective.


  1. Skin needs time to respond—you should use a product consistently for at least 6-12 weeks (roughly 1.5 to 2 skin cell turnover cycles) to truly assess its effectiveness. While younger skin renews about every 28-40 days, this process slows with age, sometimes taking 45-60 days or more. Yet, most people try a product for a day or two, expect instant miracles, and abandon it when they don’t see immediate results.


    Good skincare takes patience, consistency, and scientifically backed formulations—not hype.


 

Not all treatments marketed as ‘scientific’ deliver results. Learn the truth about PRP here.


If you’ve heard about polynucleotides being the next big thing, you’ll want to read this breakdown first.

 


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